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I Tried an Ultra-Luxury Scenic Yacht Cruise. Here’s What It Was Really Like


“This ship has two helicopters and a submarine.”

That’s what I kept telling people before boarding Scenic Eclipse II.

It sounded ridiculous.

Me with Scenic Eclipse II

This wasn’t a normal cruise ship. It was an ultra-luxury discovery yacht with butlers for every suite, almost as many crew members as guests, and a reputation for offering some of the most exclusive cruise experiences in the world.

When Scenic invited my husband and I to try out the ship, of course, we jumped at the chance!

But honestly… I wasn’t sure I was going to fit in.

I’ve cruised on everything from budget-friendly mega-ships to small, luxury sailing ships, but this felt different. I imagined strict dress codes, guests who spent more on a handbag than I did on my first car, and an atmosphere that might be more intimidating than relaxing.

I was also staying in the cheapest suite on board.

Even that felt slightly absurd. On Scenic Eclipse II, the entry-level accommodation is still a suite. It still comes with a butler. It still has a huge private balcony.

Scenic Eclipse suite

So I packed my suitcase, jumped on an EasyJet flight to Nice in the South of France, and prepared to find out what an ultra-luxury yacht cruise was really like.

As it turned out, I couldn’t have been more wrong about what to expect.

You can see how we got on in this video, or read on for all the details…

First Impressions: More Yacht Than Cruise Ship

The first thing that struck me was how small Scenic Eclipse II felt.

Not small in a cramped way. It was actually extremely spacious. But small in the way that it felt more like a private yacht than a cruise ship.

Scenic Eclipse II yacht

With around 200 guests on board, this was a completely different experience from the mainstream cruise ships I’m used to, which have ten or twenty times the number of guests.

There were no crowds, no queues and no frantic rush to claim a sun lounger.

In fact, throughout the entire cruise, I rarely felt like there were 200 people on board at all.

The atmosphere was calm from the moment we stepped on board.

Crew members seemed to learn everyone’s names almost immediately. I’d order a drink one day and be asked the following day whether I’d like the same thing again.

That level of service isn’t something I’ve experienced often. It felt personal without feeling awkward or over the top.

I’ve been on ships covered in crystals with expensive artwork and giant atriums designed to impress.

Scenic Eclipse II takes a different approach.

The design is very minimalist. It’s modern, masculine and understated. There aren’t grand staircases or over-the-top displays. Instead, everything feels calm, practical and carefully thought out.

Scenic Eclipse II bar

Even The Cheapest Suite Felt Ridiculously Luxurious

Before this cruise, I’d never stayed in a suite with a butler.

Now I can say I’ve stayed in one and still have absolutely no idea what you’re supposed to ask a butler to do.

Our suite was the entry-level accommodation category on Scenic Eclipse II, but calling it a “cabin” feels completely unfair.

It was larger than every cruise cabin I’ve stayed in, and came with a huge balcony, a separate seating area, a well-stocked minibar and more storage than we could possibly use.

The standout feature was the bed. It had a remote control on each side, so we could raise it in a variety of different positions. Perfect for wathching one of the hundreds of movies that were available on-demand on the huge TV.

It was one of those little touches that made me think, “Someone has really thought about this.”

The suite also came with fluffy robes, his and hers slippers, binoculars for watching the scenery, a coffee machine, kettle and complimentary minibar.

On the first day, our butler George asked what drinks we’d like stocked in the fridge. I mentioned rosé wine. From that point onwards, there was always a chilled bottle waiting for me.

There was even fresh soy milk waiting in the minibar every day. I still have no idea how they knew that was my preference. I suppose that’s the magic of having a butler.

The bathroom was equally impressive, complete with luxury toiletries and even a Dyson hairdryer hidden in one of the drawers.

Scenic Eclipse bathroom

Then there was the balcony. It was enormous.

Honestly, the balcony felt almost too big for the furniture provided. There were just two chairs and a small table, which seemed a little underwhelming given how much outdoor space there was. The balcony could have easily fit a dining table, sun loungers or even a hammock!

balcony space

Still, when you’re sitting outside watching the French Riviera drift by, it’s difficult to complain too much.

The Helicopters Were Impressive. The Water Sports Were Better.

One of the first things we did after boarding was head outside to see one of the ship’s helicopters.

me and husband sitting in Scenic Eclipse helicopter

Yes, helicopters. Plural. Scenic Eclipse II actually carries two helicopters, along with a submarine for selected itineraries.

The helicopter pilot was happy to chat with guests, and we even got to sit inside one of the helicopters. It was definitely one of those “wow” moments that reminded me this wasn’t an ordinary cruise ship.

The helicopter flights weren’t included, though.

A 20-minute flight costs around $500 per person, which is about what I’d usually spend on a week-long cruise. I’m sure the views are incredible, but personally I couldn’t quite justify it.

The thing I enjoyed most was something that didn’t cost extra at all.

The marina platform at the back of the ship opens directly onto the sea, turning the yacht into a floating watersports centre.

marina platform

During our cruise, we were able to kayak, paddleboard and swim straight from the ship. I loved it.

One afternoon I simply floated in the Mediterranean wearing a life jacket, staring up at the yacht and wondering how this had somehow become my job.

husband and I kayaking from the ship

Then, when we climbed back on board, there was champagne waiting. That felt peak luxury.

Of course, there’s one feature I haven’t mentioned yet – the submarine.

When I told people I was cruising on Scenic Eclipse II, that was usually the thing that got the biggest reaction.

Scenic Eclipse submarine
Photo: Scenic

Unfortunately, I didn’t get to see it. I learned that the submarine is only operational on selected expedition cruises and isn’t used on Mediterranean itineraries like mine.

In fact, submarine operations are generally reserved for the more adventurous voyages to remote destinations where exploring beneath the surface becomes part of the experience.

I think the fact that the ship has a submarine says a lot about what Scenic Eclipse was designed to be.

This isn’t simply a luxury yacht. It’s an expedition vessel that just happens to be incredibly luxurious.

One day guests might be paddleboarding off the back of the ship in the Mediterranean. On another itinerary, they could be exploring polar regions by Zodiac, spotting wildlife from the observation decks or descending beneath the ocean’s surface in a six-figure submarine.

That’s a pretty unique combination.

The Food Completely Blew Me Away

I can honestly say that Scenic has the best food I’ve ever experienced. Not just on a cruise, but anywhere. The food on Scenic Eclipse II was consistently exceptional.

The yacht has several restaurants, including French, Asian, Italian and sushi venues, all included in the fare.

There’s also a lovely café that’s open from 6 am until 9 pm. I loved that we were able to eat here whenever we fancied – that’s a privilege that’s not usually available on a small ship.

What impressed me most wasn’t the fancy dishes. It was the simple ones.

A tomato salad shouldn’t be memorable. Neither should plain pasta with garlic. Yet somehow Scenic’s chefs managed to make even the simplest dishes taste incredible. Every ingredient felt fresh. Every plate looked beautiful. Everything was cooked perfectly.

tomato salad

I’m sure that if you were to order lobster, steak and caviar you might enjoy the food even more. But rather than just focusing on these showstopper dishes, I loved that the Scenic chefs made every dish exquisite, rather than adding on vegan and vegetarian dishes as an afterthought.

One evening, we enjoyed a tasting menu that officially had seven courses. I’m convinced it was closer to twenty. Every time I thought we’d reached dessert, another little course appeared.

There were palate cleansers, sorbets, tiny appetisers and beautifully presented dishes arriving one after another. I stopped counting and simply enjoyed it.

If you’re a foodie, I genuinely think Scenic Eclipse II could ruin other cruise ships for you. The standard is that high.

Drinks Are Included, But Not In The Way You Might Expect

One thing that took me a little while to get used to on Scenic Eclipse II was how drinks work.

Scenic cocktails

Almost everything is included, but there aren’t really any drinks menus. In the pool bar, there wasn’t a menu at all.

In the main lounge, menus did exist, but they weren’t something guests seemed to use very often. If I asked for one, a crew member would usually disappear to find it.

At first, I found that a bit strange. I’m the kind of person who likes to browse a cocktail menu and see what’s available. But Scenic takes a different approach. Instead, you simply tell the bartenders what you’d like and they’ll make it.

Want a mojito? No problem. Fancy something fruity? They’ll create something for you. Prefer whisky cocktails? They’ll happily recommend one.

The same approach extends to the restaurants. Rather than handing out lengthy wine lists, the sommeliers often come around with a couple of carefully selected bottles and explain why they’ve been chosen to complement the meal.

You can request a wine list if you want one, and there are premium wines available for an extra charge, but most guests seemed perfectly happy with the included options. And honestly, so was I.

Scenic wine list

The wine was excellent.

In fact, one of the dangers of a Scenic Eclipse cruise is that your glass is never empty for very long. The moment it reaches about a quarter full, someone appears to top it up.

You board with champagne. You have wine with lunch. A glass of wine from the mini bar on the balcony in the afternoon. Wine with dinner.

Cruise Mummy with wine

I genuinely lost track of how much I’d had on several occasions. Not because I was trying to drink a lot, but because the service was so seamless that the wine just kept appearing.

At one point, during a dinner with a wine-pairing menu, I looked down to see I had five drinks in front of me!

glasses of wine on the table at dinner

It’s a wonderfully indulgent experience.

I Expected Snobbery. Instead I Made Friends.

This was probably the biggest surprise of the entire cruise.

Before boarding, I’d worried that an ultra-luxury yacht might feel intimidating. It didn’t. Not even slightly. In fact, the guests were some of the friendliest people I’ve met on a cruise.

Matt and Jenni on the top deck of Scenic Eclipse II

One evening we were seated with an Australian couple we’d never met before. On another night we shared a table with people we’d met during an excursion. Both evenings were fantastic.

With only around 200 guests on board, you quickly start recognising familiar faces. You bump into the same people in the lounge, on excursions and at dinner.

The furniture on the ship is subtly arranged in a way that brings people together. By the end of the cruise it felt less like being on a ship full of strangers and more like being part of a small community.

Scenic Eclipse cafe table

The guests were also more varied than I’d expected. There were plenty of people in their 40s and 50s, as well as the typical retirees I expected. We met guests from Britain, America and across Europe.

If you’re worried that an ultra-luxury cruise will feel stuffy or pretentious, that certainly wasn’t my experience.

The Included Excursions Changed The Pace Of The Cruise

One thing Scenic does particularly well is excursions, which are all included. That might sound like a small detail, but it changes the entire rhythm of the cruise.

On many cruises, I’ll often wander around a port independently. But when excursions are already included, it makes sense to take advantage of them.

During our sailing we visited Portofino and Santa Margherita in Italy, Alghero in Sardinia, Calvi in Corsica and St Tropez in France.

Portofino

The available excursions ranged from active hikes and walking tours to food and wine experiences. There was something for every fitness level.

The downside? Most excursions started quite early.

We often found ourselves setting alarms for around 6 am to make sure we had time for breakfast before heading ashore at 8 am.

But honestly, it was worth it. The included excursions helped us experience destinations in a much deeper way than we otherwise might have done.

The Senses Spa Was Surprisingly Quiet

One inclusion that doesn’t get talked about enough is the Senses Spa.

On most cruise ships, access to thermal spa facilities costs extra. On Scenic Eclipse II, it’s included.

The spa includes steam rooms, saunas, experience showers, heated loungers and relaxation areas designed to help you completely switch off.

One of my favourite spaces was the salt therapy relaxation room, which has heated beds that are almost impossible not to fall asleep on.

What surprised me most was how quiet it was. Despite there being around 200 guests on board, the spa was often empty. I usually had the entire place to myself!

The spa is divided into separate men’s and women’s areas, although staff explained that if it’s quiet, couples can often use the facilities together, provided nobody else is using that section.

It felt very different from the thermal suites I’ve experienced on larger cruise ships, where you pay around $100 and then finding an available lounger can sometimes be a challenge.

Like so many things on Scenic Eclipse II, there simply weren’t crowds.

After a morning hiking in Sardinia or exploring the streets of St Tropez, returning to the ship and spending an hour in the spa became one of my favourite parts of the day.

It perfectly matched the relaxed pace of life on board.

The Dress Code Caught Us Out

One thing I struggled with before the cruise was deciding what to pack.

The atmosphere on board is very relaxed during the day. People wear hiking clothes, casual outfits and practical clothing for excursions.

Evenings are a little smarter. Not formal. Just smart.

I somehow managed to get this slightly wrong. My husband had packed smart tailored shorts to wear with collared shirts in the evening.

When we arrived, we discovered that men are expected to wear trousers for dinner.

Thankfully, it wasn’t a big issue. No jackets or ties were required and smart trainers were also acceptable. For anyone planning a Scenic Eclipse cruise, I’d describe the dress code as elegant but comfortable.

One Area Where Scenic Eclipse Falls Short

There was only one thing I felt was slightly lacking – Entertainment.

That’s not necessarily a criticism because Scenic Eclipse isn’t trying to compete with large cruise ships in this area.

If you’re expecting Broadway-style productions, comedians, game shows and late-night parties, you’ll be disappointed.

The evening entertainment was centred around a couple of talented singers, a pianist in the lounge and perhaps the occasional movie in the theatre.

Scenic entertainment

But the focus here isn’t really on the entertainment. It’s on the destinations, the food, the service and the overall experience.

Most evenings we found ourselves enjoying a leisurely dinner, a few glasses of wine and an early night before rising early for the next day’s adventure. And honestly, that suited this style of cruise perfectly.

So, Who Is Scenic Really For?

Before planning this cruise, I assumed Scenic Eclipse II was mainly for wealthy retirees who wanted a luxury Mediterranean cruise.

After spending a week on board, I realised it’s much more versatile than that.

The Mediterranean itinerary I experienced was all about small and beautiful ports, included excursions, incredible food and relaxing afternoons at sea. We visited places including Portofino, Alghero, Calvi and St Tropez, with opportunities to hike, explore local towns and enjoy watersports directly from the marina platform.

But that’s only one side of what Scenic Eclipse does.

This ship was actually built as an expedition yacht. While I was sipping rosé in the Mediterranean sunshine, the same ship also spends part of the year exploring some of the most remote places on Earth.

Depending on the itinerary, guests can sail to destinations including Antarctica, the Arctic, Greenland, Iceland and South America. On those voyages, the experience will be completely different.

Instead of wandering around glamorous Mediterranean ports, guests head out in Zodiac boats to explore glaciers, icebergs and wildlife. Expedition teams lead shore landings and educational talks, helping guests learn about the environments they’re visiting. Some itineraries even offer opportunities to spot penguins, whales, polar bears and other wildlife in their natural habitats.

That’s one of the things I found most fascinating about Scenic Eclipse. Most ships are designed for one type of holiday. This ship somehow manages to do both.

Scenic Eclipse ii

One month it might be taking guests paddleboarding in the Mediterranean. The next, it could be navigating through Antarctic ice with passengers heading ashore in Zodiacs.

So who is Scenic Eclipse really for? I’d say it’s for travellers who want luxury, but who are also curious about the world.

It’s for food lovers, adventure seekers and people who enjoy exploring destinations in depth rather than simply ticking them off a list.

It’s also ideal for those who love the idea of an expedition cruise but don’t want to sacrifice comfort. It allows you to spend the morning spotting wildlife from a Zodiac and the evening enjoying a multi-course gourmet dinner with fine wine.

If your perfect cruise involves waterslides, big production shows and lively nightlife, Scenic Eclipse probably isn’t the right fit.

But if you’d rather spend your days exploring incredible destinations and your evenings enjoying exceptional food and service in a relaxed atmosphere, it’s easy to see why so many people fall in love with this ship.

Check out the best itineraries from Scenic

Sail the world in unrivalled luxury!

My Final Thoughts

When I boarded Scenic Eclipse II in Nice, I worried that I might feel out of place. Instead, I spent a week feeling completely at home.

Yes, the yacht has helicopters. Yes, it has a submarine. Yes, every suite comes with a butler. But those weren’t the things I’ll remember most.

I’ll remember paddleboarding in crystal-clear water off the back of the yacht. I’ll remember sharing dinner with people who were strangers a few hours earlier. I’ll remember admiring the sunset from my balcony with a glass of rosé from my fully stocked minibar.

sunset

And I’ll definitely remember the food.

Most of all, I’ll remember how relaxed everything felt.

Scenic Eclipse II is undoubtedly luxurious. But it isn’t intimidating. It isn’t pretentious. And it isn’t trying to show off.

It’s simply one of the most enjoyable cruise experiences I’ve ever had.

Check out the best itineraries from Scenic

Sail the world in unrivalled luxury!

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